On Tuesday I went back out with Lee for one last effort on The Singularity. It was a beautiful winters day. Crisp and not a cloud in the sky. It was however, very windy at the cliff, but in the calm it was great. After the warm ups I went up Singu and gave everything a brush and climbed all the moves except for the cruz, just getting my self warm for it. Then belayed Lee on his proj, where he made a high point. Lee had bought some tiny heat packs (half the size of a iPhone)and he put one in his chalk bag, so each time you chalked up you got a little warmth. On the windy days at Pulpit frozen fingers can be killer. He came off but was stocked that the heat packs worked a treat. I chucked one in my chalk bag and tied in. I got to the crux feeling the same as the 9 previous times I'd climbed to it. But suddenly my right hand just moved in slow motion to the crimp, hitting it perfectly. Reach for the pinch, half a doubt about the move to the slopper then throw and catch. I was psyched. It always feels great to climb a route well.
Lee did even better again on his next two attempts on his proj. It's weird saying high point for this. The last few times his high point has been hanging off the same holds, but each time his hanging slighty longer and moving his body and feet ready for the next move. I really think he's definitely strong enough to do the route while I'm away. Good luck bud!!!
5 DAYS TIL ROCKLANDS!!!!!!
Here's a cool vid Lee made of a bit of my journey on the route.
I've been working on The Singularity for 5 days now and on the weekend I came close to doing it. I figured out the subtleties of the crux and managed to stick the stab to the 1/3 pad slopey crimp for 2-3 seconds before peeling off. From the crimp you through out to a good pinch then make an easy deadpoint to the victory juggy sloper then 18 climbing to the top. I'm heading out tomorrow with Lee for one last go before heading off to Rocklands. It'll be my last go for 7 weeks =(.
Lee is looking close to doing his project as well. It's a new route linking Beautiful Thing, 28 and Schadenfruede, 31. He is dancing through it until the last hard moves at the top where he has a melting moment. It's going to be one of QLD hardest routes, Lee saying it's at least a grade harder then Schanden. It'll sit at at least 32, Schanden being at the bottom of the 31 grade.
So Lee and I are heading out with projects we both really want to do. Should be a good day out!!!
Here's a vid Lee made the other week of how my skin is going.
I've been pretty busy in the last few weeks. Working heaps and climbing heaps.... sort of. I've had an annoying finger injury since before easter and its just stayed the same. I kept climbing with it thinking it'd go away but it has just hung around. So I've been icing (but no where near enough) and resting and hoping for the best. I'd rather 3 weeks off now then in Rocklands.
I've been climbing at the Pulpit recently and have been having heaps of fun. A few weeks back I did a route I've wanted to do for ages. I saw a pic of Lee on it before I'd ever been out there and I wanted to do it. It gave me some frustrating times, I have no endurance at the moment because I'm just bouldering. A 30m 30 was not going to go down easy if your training the opposite. After that I got on The Singularity. A 32 Lee put up a few years back. Its a great boulder route. It climbs about 20 sustained moves culminating with a bull shitlly hard move on 1/4 pad edges to a hard pinch move then a out of balance slap to a sloper. I've had 2 1/2 days on it so far, 9 goes in total i think.
The top 3 photos are One Hit. The 1st photo shows the route. Resting at the 1/2way point before powering out to the top.
These pics are from Singularity. The top pic is on a low hard move and the bottom photo is the crux move. Hopefully I'll stick it soon!!!
