Kitten Mittens Project

Kitten Mittens Project

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Headed south

Long time coming but better late then never I guess. I’ve just been lazy lately. So lets play catch up. After I got back form Rocklands I took a very long overdue rest for 5 weeks. My fingers were fucked. Climbing a ladder at work hurt them. When I came back it sucked. I’d lost a lot of strength but it felt damn good to be climbing again, feeling the movement. Best of all the digits were feeling much better too. Still not 100% but I was going to take the win. After very slowly getting back into it for a month I started to feel good on the wall again. Two and a bit months later they are still tender and I don’t feel I’m back to 100% but I’m loving climbing. If you get injured, take a week off when you first feel a twinge. Not a month off because you can no longer climb, then deal with rehab for the next 6. IT SUCKS!!!

Over in Rocklands I met a few lads from the Bluies who finely swayed me to migrate south. I’d always wanted to but it seemed too hard. It really wasn’t. After three months of drilling holes at Parliament House I saved enough money to pack the car and head down. I’ve moved in with Amanda, her awesome kids and Thom in a massive house at Medlow Bath. It backs out onto a spectacular view of the Gross Valley and in the backyard is the crazy and disorientating roofing climbing of the Underworld.

The weather has been pretty kind in the last 3 weeks. Done some fun climbing around the joint whilst trying to not over do it and refuck my fingers. I’d never done much multipitching before but recently did Wally’s World and I was a teenager for the CIA with Rick and loved them. I didn’t real do I was a teenager, but tried the variant finish, Davis Hicks Memorial. I got through it all and 2m before the top took a wrong turn and tried to head out right into moss and chossy rock and soon had a footer break and I came tumbling off. For some reason I thought the topo said head right at the end. I tried doing that for 10 minutes then gave up and bailed out left and up. When I rechecked to topo and saw that out left was in fact the way to go it was pretty annoying. But it just means I get to get back on and try again. It was a stellar bit of climbing. Also on the Teen angst wall was an ultra classic route called Beautiful but Limp. A 50m pitch, climbing the full length of the wall right up the guts. It was insanely good. Might be easier then the proposed 27, but to be honest it really doesn’t matter. Being able to just keep climbing and climbing in one long hit, for me, is what it’s all about. Getting in a good headspace and just flowing up a wall is one of the best feelings I think. One day I’d love to climb something that’s that long and at my limit.

I’ve also joined up to the boulder co-op in Blackheath. It’s insane. Back in Brisbane training consisted of myself and the boys playing pranks on each other, talking trash, playing soccer in the car park, hacky sack, handball and most recently building forts out of the cardboard boxes we found in the bins outside the gym. Although this was tons of fun it really didn’t help with climbing. I’ve been to the co-op three times now and have had three good sessions. Pretty psyched to actually start doing some proper training.

So basically that’s a quick overview of the last 3 months. Now I’ve settled down and got everything sorted I’ll pull my finger out and start updating more regularly, so stay tuned. All I need to do now is find some work =s.

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