The weather in the mountains over the last week has been real horror show. From last weekend until Saturday morning I don’t think we had more then 20min where the rain eased up. The usual Bluies fog roles in and you just sit tight. A trip to the co-op for a spot of training helps with the itches, but it’s only a temporary fix. Maybe two days. As the weekend grew closer however, the prediction for a clear Saturday afternoon and Sunday began to look promising. Waking on Saturday morning to see blue skies chasing away the dark clouds was a welcome sight. Amanda and I headed out to Boronia that afternoon thinking we would be fighting the usual circus crowds. It was empty. There was a good breeze blowing and, in the shade, it was actually quite chilly. Although there was some run off from the top of the cliff, most routes only had wet victory jugs. It had been kind enough to venture no further down. After her success on Lyptus (23) last week Amanda changed her sights to Grape Hour, the classic 25 next door. After a couple laps up it she had almost all the moves. Pretty good considering its one of the hardest routes she’s been on. I don’t think it’ll take her long to start going for the redpoint burns. I jumped on Tripe, which I had had one go at the previous weekend. I got to the top and was pretty happy to have done it. The climbing on that top wall is so good. Just wish it were more continuous. Rick ended up showing after finishing work and had a lap up Green Eggs & Ham, his new proj. This was the only route to be properly affected by the rain. Between the last draw and anchors was soaked. He got all the moves leading up to it though, so with a little bit of route fitness I think he’ll put it to bed soon enough. We walked out to stunning sunset to finish a beautiful day.
On Sunday a group of us headed to Bardens. Here, we found the circus. Managing to score the last park in the car park we walked in and found the crowds. After a few warm-ups on the slabs I went around the corner to jump back on Bloodline. I’d had a few goes on it before and still had all my draws dangling from the roof to the anchors. First go I got up to just under the prow, had a quick shake and tried to bust out the last few moves. As I pulled into the undercling I melted. I growled though and tried to slap up to the good edge. I missed fell. I wasn’t the nicest fall I’ve ever had. If you have fragile eyes you may want to skip the next sentence. It was a big enough fall, maybe 6ish meters, but really nothing to worry about unless you have your right nut caught under your leg loop. God damn it hurt!!! Rick had a go at Pleasures, but still had trouble holding the move through the roof. Jay got the batman of Way of all Flesh, clocking in his first 26! After some rest I got back on Bloodline for another crack. Pulled through the roof and hung at the last good rest before the final power endurance crux. As a started into the final bit I had this weird feeling come over me. I wasn’t feeling pumped like every other time and all the holds felt twice as big. I kept on climbing and hit the anchors feeling pretty good. Stripped the draws and the job was done. Took seven goes in total. Starting to feel some good fitness. I’m not sure whether I’m happier to have my draws back or that I did the route. Walking around with six draws for 2 weeks is definitely not enough for the mountains.
As for the grade, I think 31. There's enough rests and the holds are all too positive, I think, for it to be in the 32 range. I heard the FA and a few proceeding ascents were done differently to the sequence I used, but I saw the sequence and it seems bizarre. Skipping a bunch of holds right next to and below 2 draws to make it hard seems contrived. Climb the line. It shouldn't be about eliminating to get a grade. This is all second maybe third hand info I got though so I don't want to tread on toes. It was what I was told and thats my opinion on it. Straighten me out if what I've been told is trash.
Later that day Sammy onsighted his first 18 and followed it up by flashing his first 19 since starting climbing again 6 weeks ago after many years of the wagon. Cool to see some good progress and I don’t think it’ll be long before he starts knocking of 20+ routes just as quickly.
Todays a rest day before heading back out again tomorrow. Job hunting has been a project for 3 weeks now and still to no avail. Going to have another crack at the title today. If anyone knows of any work going I’m keen. Happy to waiter, do retail or be a labourer (I have experience)!!
Peace out and stay posted for some new stuff. Hopefully buy a camera soon so the posts will have some colour YAY.