Motivation to pack equals zero. I’ve been walking around the house all morning trying to get my stuff together for my flight back to brissy tomorrow for Christmas but have done everything but. Procrastination has hit 100%.
Climbing recently has been going well. Been enjoying getting out and making the most of what’s apparently the coldest start to a summer in a long long time. I’ve been on Mechanical Animals a bit lately. It’s been a demoralising journey. After falling on the final hard move on my 4th go due to a tracking system failure, then the 2nd last move on my 7th I’m feeling gutted. The gastons are very taxing on my right shoulder so I really only get 2-3 good goes at it a day. After coming home early from a weeks worth of work in Tamworth last week I went to get back on on Friday. Only clipped the first draw, decided conditions weren’t so great so went out and worked the moves of Camel Toe, 29. I did it 2nd go and wouldn’t recommend it unless you’ve exhausted the rest of Boronia. Also did Onions, 27, that day too. I tried it once about 4yrs ago, couldn’t remember the moves and did it first go that day. I had climbed through the bottom cruxy bit of Onions, with the big reach to the pocket, when I did Don’t Believe the Hype. DBtH is a really cool route. Although it’s just a big link from the start of Veterans to the finish up Don’t Believe the Tripe, with only a handful of new moves it is a worthwhile line. I managed to climb this on my 3rd go in one day, which I was happy about. The guide says 31, but 30 seems more realistic. Having done almost all the moves already on the routes it links made it easier for sure, but it seems more like an even 30.
Since the last update, I popped my Diamond Falls cherry. Goddamn that’s a good bit of cliff. I onsighted Super Weak, 26, and Mr Magoo, 27, then tried the Super Goo exenstion, 28. This is where I flailed. I fell on the last move jump to the lip on my os attempted, worked the move out and figured it’d go 2nd shot. Nope!! On the 2nd shot I fell down low on Magoo because of a poor foot placement, devastating, so quickly lowered down untied, retried and went up again. The sun was creeping into the base of the cliff and time was running out. Staring down the lip of the roof again, pumped out of my mind, I made a piss weak attempt at jumping and came plummeting down. Dynamic moves on rope are my biggest weakness. I hate hate hate hate hate them. Something I really need to work on. Climbing statically is the way I love to climb. Grab something small, lock it down and reach for the next. Jay, Amanda and I headed out to DF again on Sunday. No one was all too chirpy though. Drinking too much beer at Elmar’s party the night before destroyed Jay and I. Jay barely got 10m up You Crazy Daimond, 23, one of the best 23s ever, before feeling like yakking and coming down. We headed round to the main wall and I jumped on Mr Universe, 30, another inspiring line at DF. I got all the moves and on my 2nd go made a good link. I came down almost throwing up. Better conditions and a few less Coopers the night before and I think it’ll be good. Jay got back on his nemisis, Super Weak but wasn’t feeling it either. We need to start planning our weekends a little better.
On Saturday Duncan, from QLD, and I went out to the Freezer. After getting lost walking too far, doing some train spotting, walking back too far, then finally finding our way we got in and had a great days climbing. I got on Pinking, 30, and after sussing the desperatly thin moves I came off on the 2nd last move on my 3rd trip up. This seems to be the way my climbing is going =s. It's not a pump issue or even forgetting the sequence, just a good ol' fashion punt. Dunc got on the ultra classic Lactictoc, 26, and came super close but, apparently caught my punting illness, and fell on the last hard move. Although it was a great day out we both left unfinished business behind. Keen to get back out
In non climbing related news. Jay, Chewy and I have set up a highline in the gum trees next door. It’s about 6-7m long and about 4m off the deck. It’s soooo good. We also have a slackline setup down low so you can get a bit of practice in before you hit the big time. Pretty keen to find somewhere higher and longer to set one up, going to do some scouting around for potential spots after Christmas. If anyone knows of any good ones let me know.
My bags are still just as unpacked and I still have a bunch of stuff to get done. Until next time, Merry Christmas, stay safe over the holidays and happy climbing =)