Video from sunday

So here's the video of me on the 11 from sunday. Michael is responsible for it.

http://vimeo.com/19953904

Because the vid is on vimeo (which isnt supported by google) I cant do a proper link to it. Just click on the link. Hopefully get more vids up of stuff soon!!

A good summer sunday

Today was a pretty damn good day. Nate, Michael, Antione and I went up the coast for Matt Schimke's birthday. We played paintball and, although it's pricey, it was awesome. Everyone after over an hour of game play were covered in some pretty good bruises.

That afternoon Nate, Michael and I decided we felt like a boulder and swim so we made our way to Cedar Creek. I got on a V11 Simon Moses put up a while ago which I had tried twice before. Its a 3 move problem and every move is really hard. It starts with a tense bump to a bad crimp, then a really hard move up to a bad sloppey pinch then a desperate through to a good dish on the lip. It's really fun!!! I was able to do it after about 10min today. About an hours worth of work in total to do it. It was my 2nd V11. It feels as hard as Gone for Borneo, a V11 I put up in Toohey Forest so I'm happy about that.

Simon and Rob established many of the problems at Cedar Creek but didn't give most a name. I think this is one of the unnamed.

Here are a few picks of me on it taken by Michael. There's a video to come soon.

I'm really psyched to get to Rocklands in July this year so I'll be doing a lot more bouldering!!

Gear Reviews

I’ve been playing around with some gear from Black Diamond and Evolv lately and have been very impressed.

For the last few months I’ve been climbing in a Black Diamond Aura harness (haha yes it is the female one but it’s what fitted best). It’s BD’s lightweight sport harness, for females; the male version is the Ozone.  It sits really well when you’re climbing and is super comfortable for those long dogging sessions and hanging belays. There are two large gear loops that easily fit 6+ quickdraws on each plus a spare biners etc. I’ll definitely be taking it out to Frog when winter comes around. I think it’ll work quite well for hard trad routes. I’m really happy with the Aura and can see myself hanging in it for a while.  Did I mention it’s an awesome bright yellow!! The Ozone is orange.

Wearing the Aura on Point Break, 30, Wave Wall, Blue Mtns. Photo: Frank Petsch

The Evolv Talon G2 and Optimus Prime are the two main shoes I’ve been climbing for a while now. I’m onto my 2^nd pair of the Optimus Primes. Both shoes have been great for both bouldering and sport climbing. The Optimus Primes are a Velcro with a 4.2mm medium stiff sole and great edges.  The Talon G2s are a lace up and seem to have the same stiff sole. Being a stiffer sole they aren’t too sensitive, but once you get your confidence with them they are great. Heel and toe hooking is a breeze in both shoes. I’ve only been climbing in the Talons for a month now but am very impressed. And my second pair of the Optimus Primes are just as good as the first. Evolv’s shoes are vegan, no leather, so they won’t stretch too much. Buy your Evolvs comfortably tight. They will mold to the shape of your foot, but they wont stretch by more then ½ a size.

Wearing the Aura harness and Optimus Primes on Matt Schimke's new route Eraserhead, 26!?, Mt Coolum. Photo: JJ Obrien

Something to start with

Ok. It's taken a while to pull my finger out but finally I've made a blog. It'll be about climbing and mates. Two things that keep me going =). I'll do my best to keep it up to date so check back every now and then for something to read and pics and vids to look at.

Climbing lately has been awesome for me. I went to China with Pinnacle Sport in november last year for the best climbing I've ever experienced. It was insane and everyone needs to put Yangshuo on their destination list!!

Here's a little trip report i wrote up a little while ago:

In late November and early December I spent 2 weeks climbing in Yangshuo, China with Pinnacle sports. It’s one of the best climbing trips I’ve ever done. I flew into Hong Kong and spent a few days taking in the sights. We snuck a days climbing in at Beacon Hill, which is a great little crag. The climbing in Honk Kong is not solely worth the trip, but is definitely worth looking at if your travelling through to China.

View from Moon Hill

Driving into Yangshuo on the bus is surreal. There are literally 1000’s of limestone towers EVERYWHERE. Of these 1000’s of towers there are only 38 established crags, and according to the local climbers if you want to bolt it you can. The potential over there is ridiculous; enough for 7 lifetimes of 5 star climbing.

Each morning we woke up had an awesome breakfast jumped into the bus and cruised to another awesome crag. From Yangshuo almost all crags are less then 15min away. All the crags are insane, you just want to climb everyday. I did this for the first 6 days =s. On the 6^th day we went to Chicken Cave, which is some sort of old army shelter from back in the day. I got completely shut down on a 26 and knew I needed a proper rest.

I went to White Mountain twice on the trip. It is the best cliff I have ever seen in my life, and with routes from 20 to Ethan Pringle's new 34 its got something for almost everyone. On one of the trips to White Mountain, Owen and I decided to try our luck against the Yangshuo traffic on Scooters. I’m surprised there aren’t 37 crashes each afternoon over there. The Chinese drivers are nuts, but it all somehow works.

WHITE MOUNTAIN!!! You could drive your bike into the cliff if you wanted too. How's that for a walk in.

The day at Moon Hill was also a highlight. Its an amazing arch at the top of a hill amidst 1000's of plugs of limestone. The climbing there ranges from almost vertical to absolute roof and has a grades span similar to White Mountain.

Moon Hill

Early morning Yangshuo

Someone in our group summed up Yangshuo as China’s Queenstown. He wasn’t far wrong. It’s such a peaceful and cruisy place. There’s a really nice vibe everywhere you go. If you’re not up for a climb you can hire a bike for 20c and ride around all day. Or take a boat down the river or walk up a few of the limestone towers for a crazy good view.

At the end of the trip I’d onsighted 9 routes between 26 and 30 and redpointed a 28 and 29.

I was stoked after the 10 days. No way I thought it was going to be that good. To anyone thinking about their next climbing trip destination; do yourself a favour and get to Yangshuo. The trip with Pinnacle was just insane. Your biggest worry for the trip is if you’ve set your alarm clock for the next morning so you can get up and crank out more classic routes in a stunning setting.

As I said before I'll do my best to keep something fresh happening here so check back!! I am taking a bit of a break at the moment though. Big year ahead!! There's plenty in South East Queensland on my tick list for this year. Plus a trip to Rocklands, South Africa is looking promising!!!