GRAMPIANS!!

You seem to loose sense of time when your'e on a climbing trip. Only when you see Andersons or the Cave full of people again do you realise another week has gone by. Two weeks sounded like a good chunk of time, but throw in some crumby weather and a couple of rest days and you soon only have 3 days left. We went down with grand plans of checking out Baundik, Taipan, Araps and all the boulder fields between but soon enough reality kicked in and we just didn't have enough time to finish everything on our plate. What we did eat though would have won an Iron Chef final. Each morning we got up late, had a lazy breakfast and got out to clamber about on some of the best rock getting around.

The Cave quickly became the area of choice for us, somewhere I've always wanted to climb.  I was psyched to do a few of the classics and have my eye on a few others for next time. One day it would be cool to put together the full link. 

A very moist day in the cave

Andersons was another spot we spent a little time at and was another spot where we all got some good climbing done. Bec, Grant, Amanda and I all did the classic Mr Fox, V7, as well as some of the other gems hidden amongst the trees.

Grant on the final moves of Mr Fox V7

The evolution in pad design!! BD have created a pad that will walk itself in for you!!

Crux slap on Etch-e-Sketch v11. Was psyched to have done this one

A couple of trips up to the Kindergarden also came up. The first being on a miserable rainy day where it was forced upon us. Mist, sweat, high humidity and bad skin made the day somewhat uneventful, however, left us with a few projects to come back to. On one of our last good days Grant, Bec and I headed up to knock off what we wanted. Grant came close to sending Spanking the Monkeybars a week earlier in the spoodge, so with good conditions he was definitely in with a chance. After falling while matching the final rail, he took a break, then sent it packing. I had also tried Gripmaster a week earlier but spoodged off the final desperate holds. With crisp air all around and some good new beta from the SA lads I was psyched to press out the mantle and finish it with the awkward squat beneath the roof.

A quick go on Zeus V13. I was able to do all the moves bar one which was cool. One for next time.

I went for a walk around Taipan and the surrounding boulders one rainy day.  As I walked back to the car it started to clear and made for a beautiful afternoon

Grant busting laps on Mana V13

What more could you want on a birthday cake?

Climb through all the chalk on the left then traverse out right up the water streaks

Another day and another area, Campground boulders were another site of interest for us travellers. Amanda was psyched for Butthole Surfer, a problem she had tried on previous trips. A bung elbow and feeling a bit under the weather, didn't diminish her psyche though. Poor conditions made it hard to have good goes on it, but she has now done it in pretty much two sections. After I did Butthole Surfer I had a gander at the wall to the right of Butthole. The Butthole and Beyond project. I'm not too sure if it has been done before. I searched through the all powerfull and somewhat all knowing internet and couldn't find a mention of it having had an ascent, but really, it doesn't matter, considering how good it is. After you do BS, you scoot out right to a good jug flake. A heel above the noggin and a long reach gets you to a cool pocket and leaves half your body 3m off the deck as you are now right over the edge of the 2m platform Butthole sits up on. Reset your heel to the jug flake and make another big move up to a lockable slot. Swing your right foot over to a bad high edge and bone down to a good flake. Your'e about 4m off the deck now and right above the edge of the platform. I fell here a few times and came crashing down, smashing my hip hard into the edge of the platform before falling another 2m to the ground. Once you have the flake your feet go above your head again, you REALLY don't want to fall here, and make a few last moves to top it out. I really enjoyed working on this problem. It had a little bit of everything going on with it. I needed to try hard and with the thought of the landing in the back of your mind, it made it that much more exciting. Not being 100% sure whether it's been climbed or not I feel somewhat reluctant to name it. If it hasn't though, I've called it Fairy Hole and think it would sit somewhere around V11. I'm no good with boulder grades though. So it could swing lower or higher?? No matter in the end though, she's a tasty bit of climbing in an amazing part of the world.

After falling straight onto the edge of the ledge hitting my hip, missing the strategically placed pad, on the project. Doesn't look much but by jingo it hurt!! It still does 3 weeks later!!

My good friend Peter Crane just happened to be in the neighbourhood, so we caught up for a climb. This is him trying Fat Cow, V6. We use to climb together all the time when I first started and he taught me a lot. He pretty much shaped my climbing when I was younger. Unfortunately he gave up for a few years, to focus on his photography, but is now slowly getting back into it with his camera in tow.

On a restday we went for a walk around Araps. Couldn't resist pulling onto PUNKS! Next day we went out and Grant and I both had a go. Definitely a route I'd like to come back and do soon.

Looking over at Watchtower Crack.

After getting back from Gramps it was down to Goulburn for work for a couple week. Staying fit while away.

Now I'm back and very psyched on routes again. We've had some crazy good weather lately, compared to the start of the year, so I've been trying to get out as much as possible. I've been out to Elphinstone a few times in the last couple weeks and can't really see myself straying too far from there anytime in the future. It really is the best cliff getting about in Aust. (note I haven't climbed on Taipan yet). The routes are mega and there is much left to be done. I've been able to drag my arse up a few of the routes out there so far. Rowan's route Brummel Hook, 30, could be one of the best routes for the grade I have ever done. Long and sustained climbing with hard moves off the deck winding up with the potential to take some serious air time on the last few moves as you fight a vicious deep pump. Yesterday I got out again with Rowan and was also able to do Aristocat, 31. This is one of Lee's additions to the cliff and is also an absolute classic. With a very bouldery lower crux, easy climbing in the middle and another crux at the end just to keep you honest this route is sure to get many more repeats in the future. 

All tomorrows parties

It appears I have been a victim of time dilation. An off shoot of the theory of relativity. Time dilation looks at the relationship of gravity and velocity with respect to time. It basically states that the less gravity is affecting you, the quicker time goes by. With the bluies being at a higher altitude than Brisbane, time here does actually go quicker!! It doesn't feel all that long ago I moved down to the mountains, but it has been 8 months already! It feels like I haven't really had time to breathe lately. I've been working a fair bit in the last 2 months, which has been really good, but it has meant I haven't been able to climb nearly as much as I'd like.

Thom up high on Grasshopper

Having said that, since my last blog I have done some fun stuff on rock. Before Thom Samuels left for his big 2 year trip to see the world, but mainly Canada, he wanted to do Grasshopper, 25, out a Pierces Pass. He'd been frothing about it for months and months and really wanted to free it (he aided it a year or so back). A group of us went out early one morning and had a crack. It really is a bloody impressive line. A single pin scar which runs for 50m up an otherwise fairly blank face. I racked up and went for an onsight. I've not done a whole lot of trad and had never actually fallen on gear before. I felt there was a good chance I'd be loosing my 'no falls on gear' virginity on this thing. But after stalling a little at a crux at mid height, I got to the top clean and was super psyched to have climbed this amazing pitch. Ben had a lash next but after taking 2 6m gear ripping falls at the mid way crux he came down and handed the sharp end to Thom. Thom cruised on up, placing a little more gear between the few pieces I'd placed and flashed it easily. It was one of the most enjoyable mornings climbing I've had and got me amped for more trad!

Me mid-crux on Grasshopper

I've also got the Mechanical Animal off my back that had been on there way too long. I went through the full ups and downs of redpointing on this route. I feel I could have climbed it much earlier but due to brain farts, bad beta and a few other things it became a bit of an epic. Finally clipping the anchors on link was a great feeling and the journey I took on this route is one I'll remember.

View from the top of the proj at Sail Away wall

On a new front, I've been working a project down on Sail Away wall at Porters Pass. Those of you who have been done to Sail Away wall in the last few years would have for sure seen Vince's project out to the right. A bunch of long slings and burly moves take you all the way from the ground to the tippy top of the wall in one stellar pitch. Vince bolted it few years ago, over 5 days and invested a bit of time on it, gearing it up, chalking holds, finding sequences and putting moves together. The route has 2 very distinct sections. The first half of the route starts from the get go. Jump from a boulder at the base of the route to a good break then a high right heel, big lock off and reach up to a ledge then mantle. Easy enough climbing takes you up to a reasonable rest where you get ready for some powerful and balancey moves puts you at an obvious break. I think Vince half called this a route in itself and goes around 30, but the 'extension' is where its at! You get a good rest after this first bit of climbing, which you definitely need as you are about to launch into some serious business. After a few introductory moves on edges you get to quickly clip and bust up into a thin high gaston, a foot shuffle and a big throw to a horrendous slopper then pop again to an edge. Now you're under the big 45 degree headwall, pump is well and truely numbing your brain and you still have almost 20 moves left. Grab a few pockets and cross over to an edge and deadpoint to a crappy little crimp then a big hard move to a sloppey jug. Now just 3 moves on some pretty bad sloppey crimps take you to the lip and the tricky mantle. Do all this in one hit and you've got yourself a seriously wicked route. It feels like I'll have to invest a fair crack of time on these moves. A lot of fitness needed.

Another route with Vince's name to it, this time he was just the first to climb it, not bolt it. Baboon Banquet, 33,  at Bowens Creek. This is an absolute classic route on the far right side of the main wall. Right from the blocks this one kicks you in the guts. A few crimpy moves gets you to a very weird pouncey move out right to a sloppey edge then a heal toe cam in front of your face gets you through the next couple of burly moves. After a good rest you just need your burners to keep going through a pretty goey, but not too ridiculous last boulder. There's a potential heartbreaking left gaston move only a few meters from the top but I figure if I sing enough Achy Breaky Heart to it while I'm up there each time it'll get the massage and all will be ok and I won't come off.

The last route I've thrown myself at lately is Sneaky Old Fox, 34, at DF yesterday. Despite baltic conditions it was actually quite a nice morning out. I wrapped in putting the draws on and felt a few holds and chalked a couple things up. First lap on Hairline for a warm up I was having second thoughts about climbing out there. Numb Fingers and stiff muscles aren't nice to climb with. But after a second lap I was feeling good. Amanda, however, wasn't feeling so chipper. It was quite funny really. Despite 4 layers she'd still scurry off around into the amphitheatre betweens catches to defrost. Back on topic though, SOF is just awesome. It starts up Fantastic Mr Fox and does its crux, then a tough traverse up to the rest below Grey Area before launching into those classic 2 moves of GA. I linked a few sections together and worked out some good beta and am psyched to get back on it soon.

DF!! If you have a keen eye you can spy my blue rope snaking up the red and grey streaks of SOF

I don't think it'll be too soon though. Got a solid week of work, followed by 3 nights of nightshift over the weekend then Amanda and I pack the car up and go meet Grant and Bec down in the GRAMPIANS for some southern rock action. Pretty excited for Gramps. I've never been so I think I'm going to just try and get a taste of it all. Some bouldering, a bit of Taipan action and perhaps a little trip over to Araps for a dabble at the trad classics.

On a sadder note, recently we lost a very close friend. About a month ago Jay Trent was hit by a passing car on his way to work after pulling over and fixing something in the back of his ute. Although I've only known Jay since I moved to the mountains in November, he's been a big part of my life. When I first met Jay he and Thom had just walked in the backdoor after a day of climbing. He greeted me with his big smile and a 'gday mate, do you want to go grab some beers?' After getting back from the bottleo Jay, Thom and I all sat around having a few and joking about as if we had been mates forever. Over summer Jay had some time off work due to bad weather and we climbed and got up to all sorts of shenanigans together for a bit over a month. Thrown in there he and Ben Jenga did an express trip down to Tassie to taste the best of the apple isle. Jay was always psyched to get out and climb and have fun with his mates. He'd give everything on redpoint burns of his project, drive 12hrs to Frog just to climb for 2 days in the rain, look for new lines to bolt, multi pitch at Pierces Pass or almost throw up on his warm ups at Diamond Falls because he'd drunk waaaaay too much the night before. He'd do it all with a big goofy grin and a laugh.

Seeing Jay top out on Don't Believe the Tripe after weeks and weeks and weeks of  low points, high points, dummy spits and bad weather he walked up it. It is honestly one of the best feelings I've ever had in climbing. I'm glad I was there to see him finally climb it and in style.

Slackline action in Blackheath park

Jay in his finest hour

We are going to miss you buddy, but we are all better people for having had you in our lives. One and a half thumbs up!!

I'll try to keep on top of this blog a little more now. Stay tuned for some gramps photos and a trip report in the next few weeks.

A good saturday

So the gang of four, Thom, Jay, Amanda and I, headed back out to DF this morning. Although walking in was pretty warm, once we stepped over the edge for the rap in it was very nice. Cool in the shade and a nice constant breeze giving the air some nip. After the warm ups I got back on Grey Area. I got up to the rest and was feeling good. I had a moment midway through the crux where I thought it was all off. I wasn't high enough up on the undercling and the nipple seemed miles away. Screw it!! Just reach up and give it some curry. I clawed the nipple and suddenly thought, shit, here we go, dont screw up. Right foot up, get set and huck for the jug. I let out a victory yelp and clipped the anchors. Psyched. 5 goes in the end. It seems a little soft, but it is 2 moves after about 28/9 climbing and I guess the moves are my style. But all in all it doesn't matter. It was fun =). Afterwards I had a play up Rhythm and Stealth and got a bit of a sequence happening. It's pretty rad too and I'm keen to get back on!!

Victory jug. Photo: Jay Trent

Between Showers

Previously I’ve blogged about a route I was trying at DF called Mr. Tickle. Although we’ve had some horrendous weather lately we have been able to get out there on the odd good day for a play. There must have been something in the air on one of these days because both Andrea and I sent. Andrea did Mr. Line in style, first go of the day and I snagged the crux hold on my second go of the day. I had been trying MT for 4 days, falling from the blind jump crux move over and over and over. It turned into a one-move wonder and I felt as though I wasn’t progressing at all. This was really frustrating and I may have dropped some F bombs a few times. But everything turned out in the end and I am psyched to have climbed it.

The last few times we’ve headed out to DF we’ve been rapping in. As many may know, the rap chains are basically right above Grey Area. Each time I rapped down I had a bit of a sticky beak at it. On Sunday, Jay, Thom, Amanda and I headed out to DF on another rare sunny day and I decided to give it a go. As we got to the top of the cliff before the rap the wind picked up. It was nuts. The waterfalls were blowing sideways making pretty much everything on the ground wet and a good chunk of the cliff was seeping from a week of solid rain! But Grey Area was dry, and so was Mr. Tickle, which Thom was keen for.

On GA the first 15m of climbing is pretty straight forward and takes you up to a good rest right before the crux. The crux is the last two moves and involves grabbing a good undercling with your right hand, getting your feet really high, reach up for a small nipple with your left and bust up for the victory jug. It took a bit of mucking about to work out the crux, but after trying a few different things I had a sequence. It’s a funny thing though. The crux sequence is all about your feet rather then hands. I got home that afternoon and popped on Smitten to see how Lee does it, it’s the final crux of Sneaky Old Fox, and saw he was using different feet. So on Wednesday when Thom and I headed back out there for another stellar day of climbing I had a play with Lee’s little foot sequence. It works!! And is about 34% easier, which is rad! My highpoint now is getting the nipple with my left and holding it for a second, then sagging away and falling. I’m so psyched and it feels quite close. Thom also had a good day on Mr. Tickle, despite having raw tips. He worked through all the moves and now has a sequence on the go and is psyched to get back on! Hopefully the weather holds for us and we can get back out there on Saturday.

I had a quick trip to QLD a couple weeks back and got back on a project I tried a bit in 2010. It’s a route Antoine bolted at Coolum and is very tricky. When he bolted it none of us thought it’d go. But after days of playing on moves and feeling holds it all came together. When he bolted this he said he was bolting it for the future. He is one of the most psyched dudes out there and its cool he’s bolted this line for the community. When I was originally working it I was able to do it all except for one clip down low and couldn’t ever muster up the Jacobs to skip it. The other week when I was back in Bris I figured I’d drop by Coolum and do it. I feel stronger now so thought I’d jump on, reacquaint myself with the moves and do it that day. HAHAHAHAHA NOOOO!!!!!! I got shut down hard and after 2 goes up it was absolutely shattered. Coolum is just such a different style to anywhere else and it can take a bit to get your head into it. Had fun working on it though and am keen to get back up soon and have another play.

Recently I joined the Sea to Summit team, which I’m stoked about. They stock Evolv, Black Diamond and Beal, amongst many other great brands. Check their website out here www.seatosummit.com.au/home.php. I’m loving my new kit!!

Low moves on Grey Area. Photo: Jay Trent

Close but no cigar on Grey Area crux. Photo: Jay Trent

Thom on a night of crack climbing at Katoomba bridge. We call it urban Indian Creek

Is this it??

First for 2012, and if you want to buy into the crap, this could very well be the last year of your life!!!! OMG!! The world is going to end!! It really won’t. Or will it? If it is you’d better make the most of it. Live everyday like it’s your last or whatever other clichés you can think of that gets you pulling your finger out and starting to have fun in life.

It’s been a bit of a cruisey start to the year. Had a nice chill out before getting serious. I’ve done a few cool routes since last time though, onsighted Hairline 2000 (which was rad), flashed Sea Air which climbs slightly better then it looks and also redpointed Equaliser, Returnity, August 1914, Mississippi Moonshine, Mr Universe, Temptation and Mr Carpet Burn. It’s been fun working through these routes and getting more of a taste of the bluies. There’s also a few projects I’ve thrown myself at. Mechanical Animals is still there, but I haven’t been on it for a few weeks. I’m psyched for it, but after putting on almost 3 kgs at xmas I haven’t exactly felt up to it. Mr Tickle at DF is another I’ve been keen on. I’ve had 3 days on it now and on the 3rd day came off holding the crux crimping trying to reset. From there its easy to the top. Devastating but it’s hard to complain about a highpoint. I feel like I’ve had good progress on this route. First day after about an hour of throwing myself at the crux move I think I stuck it twice. I can now do it almost every time, but not on link =(.

Apart from climbing I’ve been getting psyched on slacklining of late. We’ve been setting a few up in the spare lot next door, including one that went about 20m. After a couple falls I walked it a few times and managed to go back and forth once. Jay, Lucy (who apparently are now a couple so I’ll refer to them as Jucy, a tasteful combination of their two names haha), a few young fellers and I headed out to dam cliffs the other week and tried to set a line out there. Initially we tried to set the longest walk first but after swimming across, we worked out our 45m line was too short!! Settling for a shorter walk we set one up but it failed miserably as we couldn’t tighten it enough. After this miserable weather that’s been hanging around the mtns for the last couple of weeks clears, I’m headed back out with a plan for the biggy. It’s about 5m off the water and the full length of our 45m line. It’ll be tricky, but uber rad to try.

As I said the weather here has been horrendous lately and according to the reports, doesn’t look like easing up. It’s a good training motivator though. I’ve started to do some campusing and hangboarding, although I have no real idea what I’m doing most of the time, it feels like its working. Either that or it could be all the coffee I’ve been drinking lately =s.

Anyway enough said. Time to get something done. And remember, we might only have less then 11 months left to live!!!