All tomorrows parties

It appears I have been a victim of time dilation. An off shoot of the theory of relativity. Time dilation looks at the relationship of gravity and velocity with respect to time. It basically states that the less gravity is affecting you, the quicker time goes by. With the bluies being at a higher altitude than Brisbane, time here does actually go quicker!! It doesn't feel all that long ago I moved down to the mountains, but it has been 8 months already! It feels like I haven't really had time to breathe lately. I've been working a fair bit in the last 2 months, which has been really good, but it has meant I haven't been able to climb nearly as much as I'd like.

Thom up high on Grasshopper

Having said that, since my last blog I have done some fun stuff on rock. Before Thom Samuels left for his big 2 year trip to see the world, but mainly Canada, he wanted to do Grasshopper, 25, out a Pierces Pass. He'd been frothing about it for months and months and really wanted to free it (he aided it a year or so back). A group of us went out early one morning and had a crack. It really is a bloody impressive line. A single pin scar which runs for 50m up an otherwise fairly blank face. I racked up and went for an onsight. I've not done a whole lot of trad and had never actually fallen on gear before. I felt there was a good chance I'd be loosing my 'no falls on gear' virginity on this thing. But after stalling a little at a crux at mid height, I got to the top clean and was super psyched to have climbed this amazing pitch. Ben had a lash next but after taking 2 6m gear ripping falls at the mid way crux he came down and handed the sharp end to Thom. Thom cruised on up, placing a little more gear between the few pieces I'd placed and flashed it easily. It was one of the most enjoyable mornings climbing I've had and got me amped for more trad!

Me mid-crux on Grasshopper

I've also got the Mechanical Animal off my back that had been on there way too long. I went through the full ups and downs of redpointing on this route. I feel I could have climbed it much earlier but due to brain farts, bad beta and a few other things it became a bit of an epic. Finally clipping the anchors on link was a great feeling and the journey I took on this route is one I'll remember.

View from the top of the proj at Sail Away wall

On a new front, I've been working a project down on Sail Away wall at Porters Pass. Those of you who have been done to Sail Away wall in the last few years would have for sure seen Vince's project out to the right. A bunch of long slings and burly moves take you all the way from the ground to the tippy top of the wall in one stellar pitch. Vince bolted it few years ago, over 5 days and invested a bit of time on it, gearing it up, chalking holds, finding sequences and putting moves together. The route has 2 very distinct sections. The first half of the route starts from the get go. Jump from a boulder at the base of the route to a good break then a high right heel, big lock off and reach up to a ledge then mantle. Easy enough climbing takes you up to a reasonable rest where you get ready for some powerful and balancey moves puts you at an obvious break. I think Vince half called this a route in itself and goes around 30, but the 'extension' is where its at! You get a good rest after this first bit of climbing, which you definitely need as you are about to launch into some serious business. After a few introductory moves on edges you get to quickly clip and bust up into a thin high gaston, a foot shuffle and a big throw to a horrendous slopper then pop again to an edge. Now you're under the big 45 degree headwall, pump is well and truely numbing your brain and you still have almost 20 moves left. Grab a few pockets and cross over to an edge and deadpoint to a crappy little crimp then a big hard move to a sloppey jug. Now just 3 moves on some pretty bad sloppey crimps take you to the lip and the tricky mantle. Do all this in one hit and you've got yourself a seriously wicked route. It feels like I'll have to invest a fair crack of time on these moves. A lot of fitness needed.

Another route with Vince's name to it, this time he was just the first to climb it, not bolt it. Baboon Banquet, 33,  at Bowens Creek. This is an absolute classic route on the far right side of the main wall. Right from the blocks this one kicks you in the guts. A few crimpy moves gets you to a very weird pouncey move out right to a sloppey edge then a heal toe cam in front of your face gets you through the next couple of burly moves. After a good rest you just need your burners to keep going through a pretty goey, but not too ridiculous last boulder. There's a potential heartbreaking left gaston move only a few meters from the top but I figure if I sing enough Achy Breaky Heart to it while I'm up there each time it'll get the massage and all will be ok and I won't come off.

The last route I've thrown myself at lately is Sneaky Old Fox, 34, at DF yesterday. Despite baltic conditions it was actually quite a nice morning out. I wrapped in putting the draws on and felt a few holds and chalked a couple things up. First lap on Hairline for a warm up I was having second thoughts about climbing out there. Numb Fingers and stiff muscles aren't nice to climb with. But after a second lap I was feeling good. Amanda, however, wasn't feeling so chipper. It was quite funny really. Despite 4 layers she'd still scurry off around into the amphitheatre betweens catches to defrost. Back on topic though, SOF is just awesome. It starts up Fantastic Mr Fox and does its crux, then a tough traverse up to the rest below Grey Area before launching into those classic 2 moves of GA. I linked a few sections together and worked out some good beta and am psyched to get back on it soon.

DF!! If you have a keen eye you can spy my blue rope snaking up the red and grey streaks of SOF

I don't think it'll be too soon though. Got a solid week of work, followed by 3 nights of nightshift over the weekend then Amanda and I pack the car up and go meet Grant and Bec down in the GRAMPIANS for some southern rock action. Pretty excited for Gramps. I've never been so I think I'm going to just try and get a taste of it all. Some bouldering, a bit of Taipan action and perhaps a little trip over to Araps for a dabble at the trad classics.

On a sadder note, recently we lost a very close friend. About a month ago Jay Trent was hit by a passing car on his way to work after pulling over and fixing something in the back of his ute. Although I've only known Jay since I moved to the mountains in November, he's been a big part of my life. When I first met Jay he and Thom had just walked in the backdoor after a day of climbing. He greeted me with his big smile and a 'gday mate, do you want to go grab some beers?' After getting back from the bottleo Jay, Thom and I all sat around having a few and joking about as if we had been mates forever. Over summer Jay had some time off work due to bad weather and we climbed and got up to all sorts of shenanigans together for a bit over a month. Thrown in there he and Ben Jenga did an express trip down to Tassie to taste the best of the apple isle. Jay was always psyched to get out and climb and have fun with his mates. He'd give everything on redpoint burns of his project, drive 12hrs to Frog just to climb for 2 days in the rain, look for new lines to bolt, multi pitch at Pierces Pass or almost throw up on his warm ups at Diamond Falls because he'd drunk waaaaay too much the night before. He'd do it all with a big goofy grin and a laugh.

Seeing Jay top out on Don't Believe the Tripe after weeks and weeks and weeks of  low points, high points, dummy spits and bad weather he walked up it. It is honestly one of the best feelings I've ever had in climbing. I'm glad I was there to see him finally climb it and in style.

Slackline action in Blackheath park

Jay in his finest hour

We are going to miss you buddy, but we are all better people for having had you in our lives. One and a half thumbs up!!

I'll try to keep on top of this blog a little more now. Stay tuned for some gramps photos and a trip report in the next few weeks.

A good saturday

So the gang of four, Thom, Jay, Amanda and I, headed back out to DF this morning. Although walking in was pretty warm, once we stepped over the edge for the rap in it was very nice. Cool in the shade and a nice constant breeze giving the air some nip. After the warm ups I got back on Grey Area. I got up to the rest and was feeling good. I had a moment midway through the crux where I thought it was all off. I wasn't high enough up on the undercling and the nipple seemed miles away. Screw it!! Just reach up and give it some curry. I clawed the nipple and suddenly thought, shit, here we go, dont screw up. Right foot up, get set and huck for the jug. I let out a victory yelp and clipped the anchors. Psyched. 5 goes in the end. It seems a little soft, but it is 2 moves after about 28/9 climbing and I guess the moves are my style. But all in all it doesn't matter. It was fun =). Afterwards I had a play up Rhythm and Stealth and got a bit of a sequence happening. It's pretty rad too and I'm keen to get back on!!

Victory jug. Photo: Jay Trent

Between Showers

Previously I’ve blogged about a route I was trying at DF called Mr. Tickle. Although we’ve had some horrendous weather lately we have been able to get out there on the odd good day for a play. There must have been something in the air on one of these days because both Andrea and I sent. Andrea did Mr. Line in style, first go of the day and I snagged the crux hold on my second go of the day. I had been trying MT for 4 days, falling from the blind jump crux move over and over and over. It turned into a one-move wonder and I felt as though I wasn’t progressing at all. This was really frustrating and I may have dropped some F bombs a few times. But everything turned out in the end and I am psyched to have climbed it.

The last few times we’ve headed out to DF we’ve been rapping in. As many may know, the rap chains are basically right above Grey Area. Each time I rapped down I had a bit of a sticky beak at it. On Sunday, Jay, Thom, Amanda and I headed out to DF on another rare sunny day and I decided to give it a go. As we got to the top of the cliff before the rap the wind picked up. It was nuts. The waterfalls were blowing sideways making pretty much everything on the ground wet and a good chunk of the cliff was seeping from a week of solid rain! But Grey Area was dry, and so was Mr. Tickle, which Thom was keen for.

On GA the first 15m of climbing is pretty straight forward and takes you up to a good rest right before the crux. The crux is the last two moves and involves grabbing a good undercling with your right hand, getting your feet really high, reach up for a small nipple with your left and bust up for the victory jug. It took a bit of mucking about to work out the crux, but after trying a few different things I had a sequence. It’s a funny thing though. The crux sequence is all about your feet rather then hands. I got home that afternoon and popped on Smitten to see how Lee does it, it’s the final crux of Sneaky Old Fox, and saw he was using different feet. So on Wednesday when Thom and I headed back out there for another stellar day of climbing I had a play with Lee’s little foot sequence. It works!! And is about 34% easier, which is rad! My highpoint now is getting the nipple with my left and holding it for a second, then sagging away and falling. I’m so psyched and it feels quite close. Thom also had a good day on Mr. Tickle, despite having raw tips. He worked through all the moves and now has a sequence on the go and is psyched to get back on! Hopefully the weather holds for us and we can get back out there on Saturday.

I had a quick trip to QLD a couple weeks back and got back on a project I tried a bit in 2010. It’s a route Antoine bolted at Coolum and is very tricky. When he bolted it none of us thought it’d go. But after days of playing on moves and feeling holds it all came together. When he bolted this he said he was bolting it for the future. He is one of the most psyched dudes out there and its cool he’s bolted this line for the community. When I was originally working it I was able to do it all except for one clip down low and couldn’t ever muster up the Jacobs to skip it. The other week when I was back in Bris I figured I’d drop by Coolum and do it. I feel stronger now so thought I’d jump on, reacquaint myself with the moves and do it that day. HAHAHAHAHA NOOOO!!!!!! I got shut down hard and after 2 goes up it was absolutely shattered. Coolum is just such a different style to anywhere else and it can take a bit to get your head into it. Had fun working on it though and am keen to get back up soon and have another play.

Recently I joined the Sea to Summit team, which I’m stoked about. They stock Evolv, Black Diamond and Beal, amongst many other great brands. Check their website out here www.seatosummit.com.au/home.php. I’m loving my new kit!!

Low moves on Grey Area. Photo: Jay Trent

Close but no cigar on Grey Area crux. Photo: Jay Trent

Thom on a night of crack climbing at Katoomba bridge. We call it urban Indian Creek

Is this it??

First for 2012, and if you want to buy into the crap, this could very well be the last year of your life!!!! OMG!! The world is going to end!! It really won’t. Or will it? If it is you’d better make the most of it. Live everyday like it’s your last or whatever other clichés you can think of that gets you pulling your finger out and starting to have fun in life.

It’s been a bit of a cruisey start to the year. Had a nice chill out before getting serious. I’ve done a few cool routes since last time though, onsighted Hairline 2000 (which was rad), flashed Sea Air which climbs slightly better then it looks and also redpointed Equaliser, Returnity, August 1914, Mississippi Moonshine, Mr Universe, Temptation and Mr Carpet Burn. It’s been fun working through these routes and getting more of a taste of the bluies. There’s also a few projects I’ve thrown myself at. Mechanical Animals is still there, but I haven’t been on it for a few weeks. I’m psyched for it, but after putting on almost 3 kgs at xmas I haven’t exactly felt up to it. Mr Tickle at DF is another I’ve been keen on. I’ve had 3 days on it now and on the 3rd day came off holding the crux crimping trying to reset. From there its easy to the top. Devastating but it’s hard to complain about a highpoint. I feel like I’ve had good progress on this route. First day after about an hour of throwing myself at the crux move I think I stuck it twice. I can now do it almost every time, but not on link =(.

Apart from climbing I’ve been getting psyched on slacklining of late. We’ve been setting a few up in the spare lot next door, including one that went about 20m. After a couple falls I walked it a few times and managed to go back and forth once. Jay, Lucy (who apparently are now a couple so I’ll refer to them as Jucy, a tasteful combination of their two names haha), a few young fellers and I headed out to dam cliffs the other week and tried to set a line out there. Initially we tried to set the longest walk first but after swimming across, we worked out our 45m line was too short!! Settling for a shorter walk we set one up but it failed miserably as we couldn’t tighten it enough. After this miserable weather that’s been hanging around the mtns for the last couple of weeks clears, I’m headed back out with a plan for the biggy. It’s about 5m off the water and the full length of our 45m line. It’ll be tricky, but uber rad to try.

As I said the weather here has been horrendous lately and according to the reports, doesn’t look like easing up. It’s a good training motivator though. I’ve started to do some campusing and hangboarding, although I have no real idea what I’m doing most of the time, it feels like its working. Either that or it could be all the coffee I’ve been drinking lately =s.

Anyway enough said. Time to get something done. And remember, we might only have less then 11 months left to live!!!

A punting life for me

Motivation to pack equals zero. I’ve been walking around the house all morning trying to get my stuff together for my flight back to brissy tomorrow for Christmas but have done everything but. Procrastination has hit 100%.

Climbing recently has been going well. Been enjoying getting out and making the most of what’s apparently the coldest start to a summer in a long long time. I’ve been on Mechanical Animals a bit lately. It’s been a demoralising journey. After falling on the final hard move on my 4th go due to a tracking system failure, then the 2nd last move on my 7th I’m feeling gutted. The gastons are very taxing on my right shoulder so I really only get 2-3 good goes at it a day. After coming home early from a weeks worth of work in Tamworth last week I went to get back on on Friday. Only clipped the first draw, decided conditions weren’t so great so went out and worked the moves of Camel Toe, 29. I did it 2nd go and wouldn’t recommend it unless you’ve exhausted the rest of Boronia. Also did Onions, 27, that day too. I tried it once about 4yrs ago, couldn’t remember the moves and did it first go that day. I had climbed through the bottom cruxy bit of Onions, with the big reach to the pocket, when I did Don’t Believe the Hype. DBtH is a really cool route. Although it’s just a big link from the start of Veterans to the finish up Don’t Believe the Tripe, with only a handful of new moves it is a worthwhile line. I managed to climb this on my 3rd go in one day, which I was happy about. The guide says 31, but 30 seems more realistic. Having done almost all the moves already on the routes it links made it easier for sure, but it seems more like an even 30.

Since the last update, I popped my Diamond Falls cherry. Goddamn that’s a good bit of cliff. I onsighted Super Weak, 26, and Mr Magoo, 27, then tried the Super Goo exenstion, 28. This is where I flailed. I fell on the last move jump to the lip on my os attempted, worked the move out and figured it’d go 2nd shot. Nope!! On the 2nd shot I fell down low on Magoo because of a poor foot placement, devastating, so quickly lowered down untied, retried and went up again. The sun was creeping into the base of the cliff and time was running out. Staring down the lip of the roof again, pumped out of my mind, I made a piss weak attempt at jumping and came plummeting down. Dynamic moves on rope are my biggest weakness. I hate hate hate hate hate them. Something I really need to work on. Climbing statically is the way I love to climb. Grab something small, lock it down and reach for the next. Jay, Amanda and I headed out to DF again on Sunday. No one was all too chirpy though. Drinking too much beer at Elmar’s party the night before destroyed Jay and I. Jay barely got 10m up You Crazy Daimond, 23, one of the best 23s ever, before feeling like yakking and coming down. We headed round to the main wall and I jumped on Mr Universe, 30, another inspiring line at DF. I got all the moves and on my 2nd go made a good link. I came down almost throwing up. Better conditions and a few less Coopers the night before and I think it’ll be good. Jay got back on his nemisis, Super Weak but wasn’t feeling it either. We need to start planning our weekends a little better.

On Saturday Duncan, from QLD, and I went out to the Freezer. After getting lost walking too far, doing some train spotting, walking back too far, then finally finding our way we got in and had a great days climbing. I got on Pinking, 30, and after sussing the desperatly thin moves I came off on the 2nd last move on my 3rd trip up. This seems to be the way my climbing is going =s. It's not a pump issue or even forgetting the sequence, just a good ol' fashion punt. Dunc got on the ultra classic Lactictoc, 26, and came super close but, apparently caught my punting illness, and fell on the last hard move. Although it was a great day out we both left unfinished business behind. Keen to get back out

In non climbing related news. Jay, Chewy and I have set up a highline in the gum trees next door. It’s about 6-7m long and about 4m off the deck. It’s soooo good. We also have a slackline setup down low so you can get a bit of practice in before you hit the big time. Pretty keen to find somewhere higher and longer to set one up, going to do some scouting around for potential spots after Christmas. If anyone knows of any good ones let me know.

My bags are still just as unpacked and I still have a bunch of stuff to get done. Until next time, Merry Christmas, stay safe over the holidays and happy climbing =)

A good weekend

The weather in the mountains over the last week has been real horror show. From last weekend until Saturday morning I don’t think we had more then 20min where the rain eased up. The usual Bluies fog roles in and you just sit tight. A trip to the co-op for a spot of training helps with the itches, but it’s only a temporary fix. Maybe two days. As the weekend grew closer however, the prediction for a clear Saturday afternoon and Sunday began to look promising. Waking on Saturday morning to see blue skies chasing away the dark clouds was a welcome sight. Amanda and I headed out to Boronia that afternoon thinking we would be fighting the usual circus crowds. It was empty. There was a good breeze blowing and, in the shade, it was actually quite chilly. Although there was some run off from the top of the cliff, most routes only had wet victory jugs. It had been kind enough to venture no further down. After her success on Lyptus (23) last week Amanda changed her sights to Grape Hour, the classic 25 next door. After a couple laps up it she had almost all the moves. Pretty good considering its one of the hardest routes she’s been on. I don’t think it’ll take her long to start going for the redpoint burns. I jumped on Tripe, which I had had one go at the previous weekend. I got to the top and was pretty happy to have done it. The climbing on that top wall is so good. Just wish it were more continuous. Rick ended up showing after finishing work and had a lap up Green Eggs & Ham, his new proj. This was the only route to be properly affected by the rain. Between the last draw and anchors was soaked. He got all the moves leading up to it though, so with a little bit of route fitness I think he’ll put it to bed soon enough. We walked out to stunning sunset to finish a beautiful day.

On Sunday a group of us headed to Bardens. Here, we found the circus. Managing to score the last park in the car park we walked in and found the crowds. After a few warm-ups on the slabs I went around the corner to jump back on Bloodline. I’d had a few goes on it before and still had all my draws dangling from the roof to the anchors. First go I got up to just under the prow, had a quick shake and tried to bust out the last few moves. As I pulled into the undercling I melted. I growled though and tried to slap up to the good edge. I missed fell. I wasn’t the nicest fall I’ve ever had. If you have fragile eyes you may want to skip the next sentence. It was a big enough fall, maybe 6ish meters, but really nothing to worry about unless you have your right nut caught under your leg loop. God damn it hurt!!! Rick had a go at Pleasures, but still had trouble holding the move through the roof. Jay got the batman of Way of all Flesh, clocking in his first 26! After some rest I got back on Bloodline for another crack. Pulled through the roof and hung at the last good rest before the final power endurance crux. As a started into the final bit I had this weird feeling come over me. I wasn’t feeling pumped like every other time and all the holds felt twice as big. I kept on climbing and hit the anchors feeling pretty good. Stripped the draws and the job was done. Took seven goes in total. Starting to feel some good fitness. I’m not sure whether I’m happier to have my draws back or that I did the route. Walking around with six draws for 2 weeks is definitely not enough for the mountains.

As for the grade, I think 31. There's enough rests and the holds are all too positive, I think, for it to be in the 32 range. I heard the FA and a few proceeding ascents were done differently to the sequence I used, but I saw the sequence and it seems bizarre. Skipping a bunch of holds right next to and below 2 draws to make it hard seems contrived. Climb the line. It shouldn't be about eliminating to get a grade. This is all second maybe third hand info I got though so I don't want to tread on toes. It was what I was told and thats my opinion on it. Straighten me out if what I've been told is trash.

Later that day Sammy onsighted his first 18 and followed it up by flashing his first 19 since starting climbing again 6 weeks ago after many years of the wagon. Cool to see some good progress and I don’t think it’ll be long before he starts knocking of 20+ routes just as quickly.

Todays a rest day before heading back out again tomorrow. Job hunting has been a project for 3 weeks now and still to no avail. Going to have another crack at the title today. If anyone knows of any work going I’m keen. Happy to waiter, do retail or be a labourer (I have experience)!!

Peace out and stay posted for some new stuff. Hopefully buy a camera soon so the posts will have some colour YAY.

Headed south

Long time coming but better late then never I guess. I’ve just been lazy lately. So lets play catch up. After I got back form Rocklands I took a very long overdue rest for 5 weeks. My fingers were fucked. Climbing a ladder at work hurt them. When I came back it sucked. I’d lost a lot of strength but it felt damn good to be climbing again, feeling the movement. Best of all the digits were feeling much better too. Still not 100% but I was going to take the win. After very slowly getting back into it for a month I started to feel good on the wall again. Two and a bit months later they are still tender and I don’t feel I’m back to 100% but I’m loving climbing. If you get injured, take a week off when you first feel a twinge. Not a month off because you can no longer climb, then deal with rehab for the next 6. IT SUCKS!!!

Over in Rocklands I met a few lads from the Bluies who finely swayed me to migrate south. I’d always wanted to but it seemed too hard. It really wasn’t. After three months of drilling holes at Parliament House I saved enough money to pack the car and head down. I’ve moved in with Amanda, her awesome kids and Thom in a massive house at Medlow Bath. It backs out onto a spectacular view of the Gross Valley and in the backyard is the crazy and disorientating roofing climbing of the Underworld.

The weather has been pretty kind in the last 3 weeks. Done some fun climbing around the joint whilst trying to not over do it and refuck my fingers. I’d never done much multipitching before but recently did Wally’s World and I was a teenager for the CIA with Rick and loved them. I didn’t real do I was a teenager, but tried the variant finish, Davis Hicks Memorial. I got through it all and 2m before the top took a wrong turn and tried to head out right into moss and chossy rock and soon had a footer break and I came tumbling off. For some reason I thought the topo said head right at the end. I tried doing that for 10 minutes then gave up and bailed out left and up. When I rechecked to topo and saw that out left was in fact the way to go it was pretty annoying. But it just means I get to get back on and try again. It was a stellar bit of climbing. Also on the Teen angst wall was an ultra classic route called Beautiful but Limp. A 50m pitch, climbing the full length of the wall right up the guts. It was insanely good. Might be easier then the proposed 27, but to be honest it really doesn’t matter. Being able to just keep climbing and climbing in one long hit, for me, is what it’s all about. Getting in a good headspace and just flowing up a wall is one of the best feelings I think. One day I’d love to climb something that’s that long and at my limit.

I’ve also joined up to the boulder co-op in Blackheath. It’s insane. Back in Brisbane training consisted of myself and the boys playing pranks on each other, talking trash, playing soccer in the car park, hacky sack, handball and most recently building forts out of the cardboard boxes we found in the bins outside the gym. Although this was tons of fun it really didn’t help with climbing. I’ve been to the co-op three times now and have had three good sessions. Pretty psyched to actually start doing some proper training.

So basically that’s a quick overview of the last 3 months. Now I’ve settled down and got everything sorted I’ll pull my finger out and start updating more regularly, so stay tuned. All I need to do now is find some work =s.